City Guide: Edinburgh
Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland, located near the coast next to Leith it is a city that has - fortunately - not felt the effects of industrialisation that many across the world have. It is a city that holds many memories, and the walls have seen it’s fair share of history over the centuries…so why should you go to Edinburgh and how should you go about planning your trip? As one of my favourite cities in the world and one I’ve had the good fortune to visit several times, I’m going to list below everything that will make this trip an amazing experience for you whether you go alone, with a loved one or a group.
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Getting To The City
Getting to Edinburgh is - luckily - quite easy. There are international flights from most major airports to Edinburgh International Airport which is located about a 30 minute bus ride from the city centre. Trains from virtually all major UK cities end up going through to the main station in the city centre and getting to and from the Airport or Station is very easy thanks to buses, trams and taxis stopping off at all regular points. So wherever you’re staying there’s probably a stop near you. Don’t worry about pre-booking buses or trains from the Airport, you can easily get tickets once you’re out, (get the 001 bus to get to the city centre quickly, that’s the route I’ve always taken).
Doing In Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a city that begs to be explored the old fashionned way. Make a basic itinerary of things you want to see but leave lots of space for exploring organically. The city is filled with little lanes that lead to lots of unexpected courtyards and eateries and other sections so let your curiousity run wild. There are of course some places that I think are obligatory when you go to Edinburgh, but exploring the unexpected is definitely part of it’s charm too.
Edinburgh Castle
A trip to Edinburgh would not be complete without a trip to the castle. I didn’t go inside because I get creeped out easily but the grounds are amazing and seeing a guard fire the cannon on the hour was definitely an experience yiu shouldn’t miss out on! The castle is visible in most places in this city, which is partly what makes it so iconic. Make sure you enjoy the views just before you enter and pre-book so you don’t get your plans scuppered.
Arthur’s Seat
This beautiful walk is about 30 mins from the city centre and it’s well worth the hike up! I’ve done this walk two ways and the second time was by far the most scenic, though the weather also helped. If like me you’re a bit iffy with heights and scrabbling up slidey paths with lots of rocks and people around you then I’d really recommend the back route up. It’s far more pretty, there’s a beautiful lake you can sit by before you begin climbing up and you get some amazing views across to Leith before you have to worry about watching where your feet go! It can get quite busy so go at lunchtime or early morning when it’s just the locals. Dogs are welcome and it will give you the most beautiful views across the city and the surrounding headland.
Holyroodhouse
Beautiful, full of history and just a short walk from Edinburgh Castle. Holyroodhouse is also opposite the Scottish Parliament for anyone who’s interested in having a gander around there. This castle, (I’m not sure who thought it was a house!) is perfect for an overcast day, and learning more about the history of the royals of Scotland. There are also some beautiful grounds and the ruin of the old Abbey which is framed by the hills that begin the walk to Arthur’s Seat.
Scotty Dog Monument
This lil statue was erected to commemorate the dog that stayed by it’s master’s grave until it too died. Very sad but also very sweet and I’m always a fan of any recognition of how amazing animals are. Well worth a photo stop and there’s a pub over the road so you can have a drink and watch the world go by too.
Calton Hill
Walk past the station on the side of the city where the Balmoral Hotel is and you’ll eventually come to a set of steps which look a bit nondiscript. Go up them and instead of following the crowd up the next set of steps on your right keep walking. You’ll find as you go up the views become more and more amazing with views over Leith and the more modern side of the city. This walk isn’t as demanding as Arthur’s Seat amd it still affords amazing views as well as a tower, a mini castle and what looks like an ancient Grecian temple remain.
Victoria Street and Steps
The iconic and very Instagrammable Victoria Street is just off of the Royal Mile and full of adorable shops, cafés and photo ops. Take your time going down it and make sure to people watch from the balconey at the top of the Steps leading to the castle as well. There’s no such thing as wasting time here. But be aware it is best first thing in the morning when the sun’s just starting to hit all the windows and it’s just locals making their way up or down.
Camera Obscura
Honestly, just go for the views from the top. It’s a trippy experience and fun for all ages but the views from the top are worth any penny. Get a viewing that coincides with the sunset and you’ll get the most incredible 360 views of the city and surrounding land.
Eating In Edinburgh
Edinburgh is - contrary to how it might be viewed in line with general Scottish cuisine - a complete culinary hotspot. Full of beautiful restaurants, fashionable bistros and adorable cafes as well as traditional pubs; there’s something for everyone and the range is amazing.
Cafe’s
For me cafe’s and breakfast tend to overlap, but if you’re looking for some sweet spots to give yourself a break here are my recommendations for flaky pastry, rich coffee and chilled atmospheres perfect for every mood.
Lunch
Hula
It wouldn’t really be a trip to Edinburgh if you didn’t stop off at Hula for lunch or a juice drink. They do a great range of lunches, (I recommend the hummus wrap which is toasted as well) and drinks and it’s a great excuse to sit in between rainstorms and enjoy watching all the people go by on their tours or with their rucksacks. I really enjoyed eating here, you don’t feel rushed but at the same time if you’re wanting to stay on-the-go you can order takeout. At the same time if you’re exhausted and looking for space to have a breather this is the perfect spot as it’s located on the gorgeous Victoria Street.
This is a really cute little boulangerie and patisserie located again on the beautiful Victoria Street. It serves a range of pastries, snazzy lil confections like lemon meringue tarts and a range of really good sandwiches that are the perfect on-the-go or sit-down refuel you need after walking around the city the whole morning. There aren’t many seats inside but if you time it right, (or it’s not raining) you should be able to get one and enjoy the atmosphere. They also do really good coffee as well as a range of other lunches such as soup. I’d recommend going here even if it’s for no other reason than to people watch and grab a strawberry tart to munch on.
Dinner
Six By Nico was a bit of a wild-card for me and it was not a disappointment at all. You have to book in advance but - whether you claim to have a sophisticated palette or not - this is a genuinely amazing culinary experience that I would urge you to jump into. The menu changes every 6 weeks, each dish (there are 6) is based on a home favourite but with only seasonal ingredients which are all locally sourced and plated in an entirely original way. There is a vegetarian and meat menu option so my fellow lettuce-eaters have no need to worry about being excluded from the experience! The atmosphere is close and you get to see the chefs making the dishes in a lil cut-out; the staff are really friendly and helpful and all-in-all it’s a great restaurant that’s out of the ordinary and well worth spending on.
Ondine is a specialist seafood restaurant located just off of The Royal Mile. This was back when I was a pescatarian so if you’re vegetarian or vegan this isn’t going to be one you should add to your list! However, if you appreciate seafood and want to enjoy well-cooked dishes in a beautiful setting then this is the place to go. Thanks to Edinburgh being close to the sea all the produce is fresh and you can definitely taste the difference. There’s a central raised bar area where you can eat in a more social atmosphere but there’s also quiet corners for chatting over glasses of crisp white wine and amazing dishes. Again it’s a little bit pricey but well worth it for the food.
This restaurant is by far my favourite in Edinburgh, even though I know it’s an Italian which isn’t very Scottish! But honestly I can’t recommend it enough, the atmosphere is so laid back, the staff are really sweet and the food is SO good. It’s got a beautiful interior with lots of tables and space through right to the back so no matter how many people you’re eating with chances are they can fit you in. If there’s more than two of you it might be an idea to book - and don’t forget to order Espresso after your meal to get the full delicious experience.
This was a really incredible experience - the food tasted fresh and was wonderfully simple but well-cooked. And the views from the windows out the back, (make sure you ask for a table near the window!) gave a scenic scape over rooftops all the way to Edinburgh Castle. If you want fresh food that caters to all individual dietary requirements this is the perfect spot, a little bit away from the main thoroughfare with a sophisticated but easy-going atmosphere. Also the interior is seriously gorgeous if you’re looking for somewhere that's going to make your Instagram have that edge.
Shopping In Edinburgh
Here’s a quick list of all the cute shops I would recommend going into while you’re in Edinburgh: